Spring Help for Drought-Damaged Plants

Weather wise, the past few years have been very hard on plants, and we need to recognize this so that we can help them recover. Remember, your plants can’t ask for help and they can’t take any action on their own behalf. Therefore, it is important to realize why our plants may be in jeopardy and what to do if this is the case.

As for the general history of this situation, the trouble began with 2 wet early springs, and then a quick and thorough drying period followed by nearly droughty conditions in late summer. The early wet nearly drowned root systems and then, before they get a sufficient recovery period, the demand for water to support the hot and wind abused tops of the plants are constantly restricted above and/or below ground. Therefore, their overall health is compromised. Then, in the mid to late summer of last year, the rain ended in many areas of Ohio. Due to the earlier rain, plants were supporting bigger leaves, longer stem extensions and more succulent tissue, all of which required more water, not less. In addition, the dryness and scorching temperatures literally caused top and root systems to cook during the late summer. Fortunately, this past winter has been generally mild – to date. Therefore, there shouldn’t be too much additional trauma for the plants to deal with. This is not a prediction of total gloom and doom though, since plants are very resilient, and we can help them.

Also be advised that you should never fertilize a plant that is dry since this can harm the root system. This shouldn’t be a big concern, though, this spring. Keep an eye on the plant for negative signs such as shorter stem extensions. This could indicate that a second application of fertilizer is necessary sixty to ninety days after the first. This application should be at half the recommended rate so that we bring the plant back gradually.

Next, we need to prune. Pruning is a dwarfing process that takes away food-manufacturing surfaces, so we don’t want to be excessive in our cutting. In most ways, though, pruning is a plus since it helps balance plants that in all likelihood have suffered root damage. In doing this, cut away only between five and twenty-five percent of the plant’s top. Start by taking out dead or crossed branches. Then work to space out the remaining branches to allow for future branch enlargement.

Finally, to save plants, you must water now and at first signs of need (usually late May to early June.) Always water thoroughly and then wait until plants need it again (usually 7-14-21 days.) Otherwise you could cause root flooding that will interfere with respiration. As a general recommendation, plants require an inch of water per week or about three to three and a half hours of watering with the sprinkler in one place. Frequency is influenced by soil type. In heavy clay, it may be ten to twenty-one days between watering; in sand it may be seven days or less. You will need to adjust to your soil type. You can estimate when plants need to be watered again by inserting a 3/8 inch dowel rod into the ground, 8-10 inches deep, and seeing what particles stick – much the way you test a cake with a toothpick to see if it is done. If dirt and water cling, you won’t need to water for up to another 5 days or so. It’s important to test about half a dozen spots on your property since conditions vary. By understanding the stress plants have been dealing with over the past few years, we can follow these relatively simple steps that work to bring the plants back to health in a gradual, non-disruptive way. For all that plants do for us, this is the help they need from us for our continued pleasure and benefit.