Pruning Plants for Healthier Growth

While pruning is a topic that I seem to come back to again and again, I can’t over-emphasize its importance to the health and appearance of your plants. That’s why I’ve decided to take some time now to touch on some of the reasons, guidelines, and tools for pruning.

First, there is no one reason for pruning. Rather there are many reasons ranging from maintaining the structure of the plant to providing an eye-catching shape, removing dead or diseased tissue and some degree of size control. Structurally speaking, it is important to prune to remove dead wood, take out crossed or crossing branches to prevent damage, and improve the plant’s structural integrity. In addition, pruning opens the plant up for better airflow which reduces the plant’s susceptibility to some diseases. We can prune to set the shape of the plant also. Pruning is also used to cut a tree’s wind resistance in a windstorm, reduce ice loading, clear physical areas such as sidewalks or power lines, or simply create aesthetic interest.

This said; there are a few basic guidelines to keep in mind when pruning. It is most important to always prune with the plant’s natural shape and character in mind. Remember that an unnaturally shortened plant is not usually stronger than a properly pruned taller tree. Furthermore, you should prune using a system called” gradual renewal”, whereby you reduce the total stem count by one-fourth or one-third per year so there is, after the third or fourth thinning, a plant that is only three or four years old above ground. Also, pruning should be completed soon after the flowering period of each plant species; or at least within fifteen to thirty days afterward. Next, it’s best to remove branches or stems at the smallest size. They’re easier to cut this way, and the plant will end up with having to produce less scar tissue since the diameter of the cut is smaller. This brings me to the final guideline which regards exactly where to cut. Do not cut flush to the trunk of the tree, but instead cut just beyond the branch/bark collar. If you have any questions about this, don’t hesitate to call a professional or ask at your garden center.

As for tools, there are many different ones to use for pruning. Hand pruners come in two or more sizes, and I have my preferences about what types to use. I believe that by-pass (scissor-style) hand pruners and loppers are best for the plant. A straight anvil cut tends to mash the branches’ tissues rather than cut them, and I don’t think this is desirable. For larger stems still, I like a pointed-blade in-line or folding saw. And, to raise up the bottom branches of a tree, I use a pole saw/pole pruner combination, which allows me to keep both feet on the ground and still manage the job.

To seal the plant’s pruning wound, it was once common practice to apply pruning paints. This is no longer recommended. The fact is, pruning paints do not function as was once thought and may, in fact, be injurious to the tree. When the cut is placed properly, Mother Nature’s built in closure tissues do a much better job. After pruning, the only thing left to do is dispose of cut branches and stems. Since House Bill 452 has mandated that there will be no disposal of landscape refuse and leaves in landfills after December 1, 1993, it’s a good idea to begin using larger branches in the fireplace and turning the rest of the material into mulch or making it a part of the compost pile. It’s a good practice for now and the future.