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Using
Water Effectively in Your Landscape
With the lack
of consistent rainfall over the past several years (too much
in spring and too little in summer and early fall), it
is understandable that many people are concerned about using our
water supply wisely. I’m concerned, too, and would like to
explain the most effective use of water in our landscapes, some
of the most efficient methods of watering, and some sources of
water that few of us consider.
I say this
over and over again when it comes to watering; water slowly,
deeply and therefore, more thoroughly. Then, leave the
plant alone until it needs moisture again. In doing this, you help
to build up a supply of moisture for the plant’s roots and
allow, even encourage, the roots to grow deeper. This way the root
system can still be cool and moist even when the upper two inches
of soil are dry. Incomplete watering keeps the roots nearer the
surface of the soil where they are more vulnerable to damage from
high temperatures and lack of water. In fact, these roots near
the surface can literally cook. That’s why we need to water
deeply enough to build up a reservoir of water in the soil capable
of keeping a plant’s roots moist for some time. Watering
one inch per week should accomplish this in most soils. The roots
we are most concerned about watering are those inside and a little
way outside of the drip line of a tree or plant. This is where
the tree is taking up most of its vital water needs, and we should
focus our efforts from about four to six feet inside the drip line
to around eight feet beyond on established trees and plants. The
lesson here is that watering the trunk of a tree for five minutes
does nothing but waste water.
Now that we
know why we must water appropriately and where this water should
be focused, it is time to take a look at some of the
more efficient methods of watering. Soaker hoses that ooze or slowly
drip water do an excellent job of directing water toward the root
systems and allowing little evaporation. To use these, simply lay
or coil the hose around the tree’s drip line in concentric
circles or spirals every two feet or so. This will allow the water
to soak straight down and also spread sideways beneath the surface.
If it has been especially warm and the soil has crusted, turn the
hose on and let if run or drip for about 15 to 30 minutes to open
the soil up. Then, turn the water off and wait about half an hour
before continuing to water. It usually takes about one and a half
to three hours for the water to soak a foot or more into the soil,
which creates the reservoir. After watering, use a shovel or a
stick to check water depth to get an idea of length of watering
period that is appropriate for your soil and in that area.
Drip irrigation
is another efficient means of watering. With drip irrigation,
a series of different sized tubes (the largest being
nearest the faucet and the smallest nearest the plants) carries
the water to the area of the plants’ root systems. The smallest
of these tubes has an emitter on the end, which drips measured
increments of water to the roots. The system is designed to be
portable, but is most convenient if set up and left in place. The
emitters should be placed near the base of the plant, and if a
bigger plant is being water, more than one emitter should be used.
This way, you avoid a concentration or imbalance of roots. This
system works extremely well on new and small plants. Overhead irrigation,
early in the morning, from oscillating sprinklers is still effective
when left on for approximately three hours in one place. Professionally
installed underground irrigation is also effective, but both of
these lose water to evaporation. For convenience sake, a timer
can be placed on any of the systems.
These are some
of the more efficient methods of watering. There are some unique
sources of water to think of, also. If we consider
the fact that one-gallon of water is wasted every time someone
leaves the water on while brushing his or her teeth or runs the
faucet until the shower water warms, it’s easy to see where
a nation of 300 million people could conserve some water. Therefore,
if you want to use what I call “gray water” to water
your landscape, there are many places to collect it. One convenient
way is to set up a rainbarrel and divert your downspout to it.
You can also use the soapy rinse water from your evening dishes.
The point is to think about it the next time you see relatively
clear water going down the drain.
All of this may seem like extra trouble, but it makes sense to
make the most of our resources.
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