Proper Transplanting Promotes Longer Life

Trees and shrubs generally have a service life and a natural life. Service life is how long a plant performs its intended function before it becomes overgrown. Its natural life can extend many years beyond the service life.

Transplanting extends the useful service life of a plant. By giving a plant a new, larger location, its continued growth can still serve a useful purpose.

For example, overgrown shrubs growing on either side of a doorway could be transplanted to the corners of the home. In this new location, their size is an asset, helping to visually soften the corners of the home.

To properly transplant a tree or shrub, begin by determining the root ball six the plant will need. The American Nursery & Landscape Association has standards for determining root ball sizes. Ask your local landscape professional for these sizes, or use the general rule of thumb, which is 10 inches of root ball diameter per inch of trunk diameter on leafy trees, and eight inches on evergreens. The depth of the root ball should be approximately two-thirds as deep as it is wide.

As an example, a three-inch wide tree trunk will require a root ball 30 inches in diameter and 20 inches deep. This root ball size allows enough root system to sufficiently support the tree.

Before digging the root ball, use soft twine to gently tie the lower branches to the upper branches. This keeps the branches from interfering with digging and planting.

The first cuts all around the plant should be at a distance just less than the predetermined root ball diameter. These cuts should be at an angle away from the trunk, not straight down (diagram point #1).

The second set of cuts should be straight, just less than down to the desired depth, and at the outer edge of the first cuts (diagram point #2). The third set of cuts should be made a few inches further out from the second cut starting point, and at an angle down towards the trunk of the plant (diagram point #3).

At the point where the third cut meets the second cut, the soil should be removed. Then, continue to cut at the same angle as the third cut down and underneath the plant.

Don't worry about cutting existing roots. It is expected, and won't permanently harm the plant.

Once the root ball has been dug, lift the plant out and set it on burlap. For short distances, the burlap can be used as a sling to transport the plant. For longer distances, pull the burlap up around the root ball and pin it to itself, much like diapering a baby.

The new hole should be dug about one to two inches shallower than the depth of the root ball, and about twelve inches wider all around. The plant should be set in the hole and the burlap removed, or tucked underneath the plant.

Native soil prepared with fertilizer, peat, and or compost should be added around the sides and made into a saucer around the plant, creating a shallow dish at the top. This makes water soak down through the entire root ball, and not lost out to the sides. Water the transplanted plant twice the first day, once the second day, once a week for the next two to three weeks, and then as needed, soaking thoroughly each time.

Transplanting cleans up the overall appearance and design of a landscape and saves money by extending the useful service life of some plants.