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Avoid
Plant Injury During Construction
Whether you're
planning an addition or preparing to build your dream home on
the "perfect" lot, you should know that
construction can kill trees. The good news is that construction
doesn't have to have such a devastating effect if you are willing
to plan and be realistic.
By realistic, I mean that you have to face the fact that with
virtually any type of construction project, some closed in trees
will have to be removed. Once you've accepted this unpleasant fact,
you can move on to deciding which trees to save and how they should
be protected.
Construction generally causes two types of damage to existing
trees. Type one is the most obvious-heavy equipment can damage
bark, break branches, roll over roots and compact soil. The second
type of damage is a little subtler.
When any area is developed, there are changes in the water table.
Streets are dropped below grade to aid run off. Sewers are dug
even deeper, further dropping the water table. Frequently, the
soil dug up from many feet below ground level is placed over existing
topsoil, altering the trees' ability to get air, water, and nutrients
and give off carbon dioxide.
Trees adjacent to construction can be damaged just by the pounding
of the equipment, wheels, piles of lumber, paint solvents, etc.
In addition, when trees are cut down to make way for streets, many
of the trees left standing are buffeted by the wind, deprived of
the protection fo the other trees. In addition, the remaining trees
no longer are shaded by the other trees that had protected them
from summer's heat, nor do they benefit from the extra falling
leaves that had protected their roots from freezing and drying
in the winter.
Damage doesn't stop with the completion of the street, however.
Construction crews and subcontractors clean their equipment and
burn their trash in what will soon be your yard. All this debris
contributes to the subtle damage that can kill a tree over time.
But before you begin thinking your trees are doomed, let me tell
you how to save them. First, realize you can't save them all. Get
a professional horticulturist or arborist to advise you which trees
are worth saving. Then, work with your builder, letting him know
which trees you expect to have living for the next century or so.
Next, fence in those trees. Snow fence works well, as does chicken
wire. Use heavy corner posts with yellow paint as a marker. Explain
to the builder that you don't want any burning or cleaning of equipment
near the trees. Finally, assign a value to each tree and sign an
agreement with your builder that the designated trees are to be
protected. At the closing, the builder will owe you the value of
any tree that is obviously damaged or destroyed. Be sure to check
each tree carefully since it can take three to five years for a
mistreated tree to succumb to damage.
There are other steps to consider, as well. If the lot must be
graded and the grading will cover a portion of the tree trunk,
you should keep all personnel and equipment away from the trunk
and off roots, clear to the drip line of the tree. Another option
is to build an aeration system for the tree.
This involves building a well around the tree and placing perforated
drain tile on the existing grade level exiting through the wall.
A return pipe is also put in place from the root zone to the surface
on the far end to allow respiration. A six-inch deep layer of gravel
over the tile and roots out to the drip line is also a good idea.
One last consideration is to simply remove the trees that seem
imperiled and plant new ones where you want/need them when construction
is over. I recommend that you consider this option before spending
a great deal extra for a wooded lot that eventually can't be saved.
Be sure to call for a consult before construction or even while
considering which lot to buy.
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