Planting Container-Grown Plants

Plants grown in containers develop root masses that differ from the roots of plants grown out in a field. This type of growing is neither better nor worse, but does necessitate a different type of handling when you transplant these plants into your yard.

The roots are contained in a pot that probably has no actual soil in it. Usually, the grower uses a mixture or perlite, sand and wood chips or pine bark in many combinations. Because of the excellent aeration during growing, plant growth is speeded up and, hence, a plant may cost less. However, the root ball contained in the pot must be handled differently than a plant with a ball of roots wrapped in burlap.

A dense root mass along the sides of the pot may be impervious to water once removed from the pot. Frequently I have had clients insist that they have faithfully watered their newly planted shrub or tree, only to have it die. What they didn’t realize was that the water never got to the plant roots; the root mass was so dense that the client merely watered around the plant.

There are several steps you can take to ensure that the root mass will not repel the water a young plant so desperately needs when establishing itself in your yard.

First and foremost, when you remove the plant from its container, examine the root mass. If you have a “glob” of roots, start by putting the plant back into its container and immersing the container in water. Saturate it just prior to planting – no need to soak over night.

If the roots are compacted along the walls of the pot, knead gently with your fingers, just enough to pull separate roots from the “glob” so the roots are no longer “pot shaped.”

If the gently kneading has no effect, place the plant on the ground sideways and roll it around gently with your hand or foot, once again pulling the roots apart slightly.

If neither of these methods yields any success, as a last resort, cut some of the roots slightly. Yes, some of the roots will be damaged, but this cutting will allow water to be absorbed into the root mass and will cause less damage than not cutting at all. This will also stop the young roots from continuing to circle and eventually girdle the stem or trunk.

With the tip only of a sharp knife – no more than a quarter of an inch- cut vertically through the root mass every three or four inches. That’s about three cuts in a plant for a quart-sized container; obviously more would be necessary in a larger-sized pot. After cutting, loosen roots little more as in the previous examples so that the plant can accept water.

Now, normal planting procedures take over: dig a wide but shallow hole, at least 12 inches wider all the way around than the root mass. Add some compost, topsoil, etc., to the soil placed around the plant, and lightly tamp the plant in place or settle the soil by watering. Build up the soil berm around the plant just inside the edge of the root zone, with the low part being at the plant stem to create a saucer to hold water so it must percolate down through the root mass.

If the season has been dry, create equilibrium in the soil so that the dry ground around the plant doesn’t absorb the water before the roots have a chance to get any. First, dig a bigger hole, fill the empty hole with water, allow to drain, set the plant, add soil, fill with water, drain, etc., until the soil around the new plant is wet also.

Container-grown plants can be some of the healthiest plants and most easily used available. So, consider planting them in your yard year around. Just remember that a little TLC (tender loving care) at planting time will go a long way.